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From the Antarctic to Ushuaia, this time the Drake passage wasn’t that kind to us. Perhaps to tell us it is not easy to go to the Antarctic and not easy to leave it as well. I left half of my mind and emotions frozen there and couldn’t take them back with me. The other half already arrived home safely with my family and left me alone in Argentina.
The 12th of March was the good bye day to most of the team. Some people couldn’t hide their tears and some said nothing when they were trying to avoid the word Good Bye. The few days we had together, hiking the martial glacier, in the ship, in the zodiacs and when exploring the Peninsula and the Antarctic land are embedded in our souls and will remain forever.
As usual, I get lost in my mixed feelings. I look around and try to remember the last moments. It sounds like we lived an entire life together. The stories I heard, the incidents that made us closer and the teams I worked in were amazing and inspiring. I will never forget Cameron or Anna who were such a great example of patience and braveness. Each one of them lost a leg, yet got a bigger heart instead. Both of them believe that had happen for their best. Seeing them boosted me up and high to climb the mountains and forget about having a tiny and tired body.
Shinaz, the Moldavian man is creative, full of energy and dreams. Raised his own funds and decided to come to the Antarctic to preserve his home from the effect of global warming. Eighty present of the Maldives might sink under sea if the sea level raised up only for one meter!
Caroline is a fantastic, quiet and smart girl. She reminds me with those who have sharp insight though they have short sight and wear optical glasses. Her butterfly nods were amazing and made our team proud. It took her five years to make her dream to visit the Antarctic real. What a great endurance and hard work.
Jihong Yeom or Patrick is a Passion Designer. His passions drive him towards creativity, innovation and inventions. Months ago he was admitted to the hospital after a bad car accident. Yet, that made him stronger and inspired him to invent a small handy yellow piece to reflect the lights and attract divers’ attention. He distributed some of those yellow pieces to us to attach them to our back bags. I still have mine attached and will not take it off. Steve gave a real example of the importance of Patricks card. Two days back, Shinaz and I met with him in Buenos Aires and he mentioned his regret about not carrying Patrick’s yellow card as he was about to be hit by a car when crossing the road.
I can’t mention everyone, but everyone has contributed in making this expedition with great value to me. Everyone’s story is unique and has its own flavor. Even those whom I couldn’t interact much with them due to language barriers such as the Chines team, they were amazing.
Not to forget the ship team, Shane, Krystle, Jamie, Jake, Berna and all the others, the ship crew along with the 2041 team worked hard to make us enjoy and get the maximum out of this expedition. They cared about our safety, encouraged us to look around and have our own quiet and self-reflection moments. I could see how much was every one of them obsessive and occupied by the gorgeousness and beauty of the Antarctic. They cared very much about keeping it neat, safe, quiet and untouched.
I assure them to walk on their path, follow the steps of Robert Swan and all those who care about preserving the last wildness of earth. It is a commitment I make to myself and the world.
My life time experience is accomplished successfully by the grace of Allah. I'm back from the Antarctic with a heart full of wonder, hope, happiness, strength, peace, courage, challenge, unforgettable scenes and mixed feelings. Being one of few people who walked to No Man Land is unbelievable. I still have that weird feeling of it not being real. Yet, the scariest part is the coming. I can feel the big load on my shoulders to deliver the message of Antarctic and environment preservation, sustainability and inspiring people all around the world.
I would like to greatly thank my sweetheart and lovely niece Aziza for her great efforts on keeping you posted with my updates when I was in the Antarctic. She was the one updating my facebook page and my blog as well. I wish she was with me in the Antarctic. She really deserves such kind of opportunities.
I won’t forget to thank you all for your support and follow-up. I got the chance to check my facebook page few times but couldn’t write back.
The efforts I had given to make this expedition are worth it. It is a story worth sharing, the message is worth spreading and token of the Antarctic importance is worth being passed to future leaders of positive change. I’m speechless. I wish I was a good writer, a poet, composer or an artist.
It is a sad feeling to leave the 2041 team, the 71 participants, the ship and its team. We became a big family that lived with harmony and peace for 14 life time days. But we promised to stay together and work together on our mission towards keeping the Antarctic for everyone yet owned by no one.
I will be back to Oman by March 17th.
Blessings and prayers from Argentina.
Zeena
Good bye Antarctica
9/3/2012
(Day Nine)
I wake up early morning as usual, took a look outside in the deck and then went inside immediately as it was so cold. Half an hour later we heard Jumper calling us to watch a very incredible scene outside. It was a massive and huge iceberg floating in the middle of the ocean. Robert said that this iceberg was broken from a glacier and taken away by the waves from its original place. He said it is a real example of global warming and what is happening in the Antarctic.
It is our last day in the Antarctic. Feeling gloomy and sad for having our last landing, I wore my layers, gloves and of course took my camera and stood in the zodiac queue. The trip was educative and a real life journey. It is a unique experience with a unique group of people.
Coming from the middle east, with no experience with such kind of weather conditions, had never seen snow before, had never ride a cruise ship for more than a day before, had never swam before and had never ride a zodiac boat before, had never hiked or climbed a mountain before.
We headed to the Antarctic Sound. One of the climate change examples in the Antarctic and one of the places that no one visit because of its challenges. Our ship is one of few ships that allows its customers to explore this place.
It was windy and chill, yet everyone was excited to participate even those who got sick of the rocking ship. Many Gentoo Penguins were there and some few South Polar Skua were next to them. There were also some Leopard Seals and Elephant Seals.
We hiked as a team, attached with a rope and butterfly nods. The hike was challenging in the ice, slippery slops and deep cracks. Yet, we were a fantastic team and made it up to the top with no slips and then back to the start point safely.
Good bye Antarctica. I looked all around and took deep breath to keep the last images in my mind forever. Out last zodiac ride and our last moments to see the icebergs, the glaciers and the Antarctic ocean. The weather is pushing us away and the sea started getting its pan cakes bigger before they cover the whole place with ice.
Then came the time to do our bell ceremony celebration in the Deck. We all gathered to take a group picture in a windy, chilly and snowy weather. We could stay there only for few minutes and immediately ran away inside the ship.
The Drake Passage seems not that friendly this time unlike the way to the Antarctic. It is wavy and rocky. The waves are about 7.5 meters. We walk in the ship like drunks and we have to follow the drake proof in order to stay safe.
I feel like having a long sleep now, dreaming about all the wonder land of Antarctic and thinking of what is right to be done to preserve it.
King George Island
8/3/2012
(Day Eight)
It was a busy morning. Three people presented about Climate Change, Carbon Pricing, Offsetting and Foot printing. The presentations were informative and exciting. Then one of the educators showed us a video about his school exhibition about climate change and the Antarctic. It was good to see how kids were excited to participate and how they really made it attractive.
After lunch we landed in King George Island. We visited the E-Base and saw some countries bases in the Antarctic. It was unfortunate to see what people are trying to do in such wonderful and pure place. I always thought of the Antarctic as a No Man Land. Seeing these many bases, trucks, roads, equipment and all the manmade stuff was really frustrating and disappointing.
It was cold and little sun shine was crossing between the clouds. The E-Base is located in a very windy place so that the wind power generators perform better. It is fully running with green and safe energy and the main purpose of building it is to promote for sustainable energy. The success of having such a green place in the Antarctic under its massive weather conditions and less sun light is to pass a true message to the world that it is not impossible and not too late to start using green energy resources.
We climbed up the hill and got to see the E-Base from inside. It is simple, clean, and warm with no furniture and few equipment. There were also some new energy tools tested by some of the participants outside the base.
Then we hiked for some few kilometers. We saw the contrast between what the natural beauty and the ugliness and evilness of manmade and civilization in the middle of a neutral place. The serene scene from the rocky mountain top towards the virgin coast where we found elephant seals lying in groups was unbelievable. Between now and then, they look towards us and probably call each other with their elephant’s voice.
The weather became colder and the wind started getting stronger. We took another path heading back to the boats. Such amazing and spectacular views surrounding us. It is really dry in here and look like a desert as back home. Few and small plants grew here and there. I felt annoyed and upset from the bases we saw on our way back. People seem to be living here as if it is their own land. They seem to be experimenting on everything with their huge tools and equipment. They even left their garbage in some places for long time and never bother about taking it away.
7/3/2012
(Day Seven)
I was super active yesterday. I felt like sleeping for hours and hours in the ice, but feeling warm and dry. Unfortunately few days left before we end our journey to the Antarctic.
It is 0 degrees today, chill, little windy and cloudy. The sky looks part of the land, pure white, hazy and there is no line to separate their borders. Looking around the surrounding fantastic white is just like having a very wonderful dream.
After breakfast, we drove towards the land to have another hike. Mentally, I was ready and excited. However, my body was slow on responding and a bit tired. When we landed and as we got used to, the penguins were there living as if we never exist.
The hill was rocky in the bottom and on the way up it was covered with snow, until we found ourselves surrounded by snow from all directions. I look down and see a majestic and a spectacular view. The sea is in the middle, the icebergs and glaciers from the left and the right side of the picture. The dark and black shadows were still in the sea surface, only few ice fragments were moving quietly gently around. It is amazing how the weather changes fast in here. It was cloudy and suddenly the sun appeared. It was little warm, but the wind was still fighting to get us cold.
And suddenly we hear a sound of iceberg crack. From the top, we could see how icebergs are cutting into smaller fragments that soon will split and swim in the sea till they become smaller pieces and melt. The sound is enormous like a bomb. The first time I heard it, we were in the ship. I thought we hit an iceberg and will sink like the Titanic.
Then, it was the International Women’s Day photo. Women are 70% of the expedition participants this year. We came from around 22 countries to represent our nations in the Antarctic. I’m glad to be part of this as the first Omani woman with the first Saudi woman and the 14 girls from UAE. It was so cold standing the deck5 to take a good picture and the wind waving our flags away. Yet, we enjoyed it and proud of it.
When we were back to the ship we had very fruitful and informative discussions about sustainability and climate change. Then Robert gave us his continues speech of the Leadership on the Edge. He passed many inspiring messages to us and these are some of them:
The last session was about the alumni and suggestions to keep connected with each other and the other alumnus of the past years as well.
Survival Night in Cuverville Island
6/3/2012
(Day Six)
I probably slept for one hour only and woke up many times felling uncomfortable in my thin and cold bed. The snow wall was good, but we woke up wet and had to face the chill weather again.
It was the survival time. Robert Swan made his commitment and came on the promised time to rescue us. That was the best experience ever happened in my life. We survived and went back to the ship in our zodiacs.
After breakfast, we had an optional Safari Zodiac. Of course, I can’t miss any opportunity to get out of the ship and be in the open area. We were lucky to see a family of whales swimming smoothly and quietly in the see, close to the icebergs with a magnificent harmony and respect.
Then we had another optional hike. This was my first official step in the Antarctic Continent. Surrounded by a superb chain of icebergs and glaciers and known to be the best place to listen and watch the sounds and sights of the Antarctic. We saw many Gentoos there, groups and individuals walking around and taking their own time to look around a well.
We walked up the steep snowy slope till reached the top. The view is far beyond any words, poems or even pictures. Reaching the top to have self-reflection moments and look around to one of Allah’s creations wonders. Then we walked the downhill slide in the deep snow on our way back to the ship. Every now and then, there must be a stop to take a deep breath appreciating the surrounding gift of Antarctica.
Our second activity was the First Antarctic TEDx Talks. A number of talks were delivered from various participants. It was wonderful to know their passions, their achievements and more their messages to the world.
On the way back to the ship, we had a cruise ride via Zodiacs to watch the icebergs and the wildlife. Every place around had a unique shape iceberg, with unique shades and blue colors. The sea was calm, ice shapes were spread all over with different sizes, floating in the water. Between now and then we hear some big ice cracks in the icebergs. Though I was taken by the imaginary beauty, I was deeply thinking of the importance to keeping these places preserved with no human being interference.
Cuverville Island & Penguins
5/3/2012
(Day Five)
Cuverville Island was our destination to experience the wildlife of the Antarctic. The temperature was -3 degrees Celsius, windy and cloudy. It is a small rocky island in the Antarctic Peninsula with majestic glaciers and icebergs. The moment we arrived to the island, there was a big number of Gentoo Penguins awaiting us. It was an amazing colony with hundreds of penguins walking around peacefully. They did not care about us walking around or watching them. I thought they think we are one of them or they just simply ignored us.
We were divided into groups and every group had to hike up 350 meters to the glacier and reach the summit. It was rocky and dry in some areas, slippery and icy in others and covered with think snow in some other areas. In the beginning, we had to climb individually and then we had to attach to a rope and walk in a line as a group. This was the training preparation to hike for the first time in the Antarctic land.
As we hike up, more beautiful places show up in the whole surrounding view. Up the hill, down towards the beach, far distance towards our ship and the while hazy sky mixing with the glaciers, were such unbelievable and incredible views. The snow was with a cotton texture and color. The colony area was a wonderful assortment of green shades, red and yellow in the middle of pure white.
Then we had to ride the zodiacs watching seals in the sea. It was very exciting to keep looking around here and there. There was a leopard seal chasing a penguin for about 15 minutes till he finally caught him and then disappeared somewhere else.
Around 5pm we had our lunch in the ship and then prepared ourselves to our first night camping. We had no food, no snacks except water. The first thing was to build a wall of snow to keep the wind away from our sleeping area. It was time for me to touch more snow and do something out of it. Working with a new team with different and amazing innovating ideas was such a great experience. The team leader was a fantastic man who lost his leg in a war few months back. Noverthelss, he didn’t surrender to the idea of disability. He rather felt gifted and special and started working positively to inspire people.
The camping night which is called the survival night was to follow the steps of Shakelton and his team. It was to feel and experience some of what the Antarctic explorers experienced a hundred years ago. The night was cold, little rainy and snowy. We were left alone with the team leaders in the island having no way to go back to the ship. The ship left and disappeared from our sight.
We had lots of fun building our bedroom (snow wall). Our imagination took us beyond to build a snow TV and watch some movies with friends. We had our cards playing room, listened to some music and jokes. Before it was time to sleep, we had to prepare our beds, open the hand warmers to air and keep our stuff warm as much as we could. We had to run to bed earlier than desired. It started raining.